I have just left Japan, and I wish I had lots of food finds to report. Not as successful a trip as three years ago.
One repeat success was the Yokohama Ramen Museum. My very fond memories were, if possible, bested with excellent ramen at stands 1, 6, and 7. #1 was Ryunsyanhai with their signature ball of spice on top of miso ramen. The next was a milky and peppery tonkatsu ramen from Kamurasaki, and finally a very Chinese-y miso ramen from Eki that was as thick as gravy with a gorgeous flavor. To have these three ramens back-to-back-to-back is a treasure. In addition, a really wonderful rice dish from Eki was a simple revelation.
My disappointments were at Genza, also in Yokohama, where I had the okonomiyaki, negayaki, omusoba, and morsels of foie gras on marinated turnip. Only the negayaki stood out with its simple combination of potato,scallion, and chive.
In Shibuya, I ate at Kyushu, recommended in Tokyo Food Pages. The sara udon is like the kind of glop I avoid at bad Chinese restaurants, the gyoza in the pan were very oily and completely uninteresting, and the lotus root stuffed with spicy mustard was ok only for clearing out my sinuses. This was not expensive, but still cost way more than it should.
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