To call the P-G's writers "food critics" would be too generous. By definition it takes knowledge of the subject matter to be a critic.
Today's paper... in reviewing Marzoni's, the writer allowed the manager to explain away blackened/burned pizza crusts by blaming it on the new wood-fired brick oven not being properly seasoned.
And the writer bought the explanation, apparently. This is most likely a case of the crust not being optimized for the cooking temps. Or somebody put something on the oven floor that's not coming up (there was mention of constant "scraping").
As if that weren't bad enough, in the same review the "critic" says, "Of the two daily soup offerings, the pasta e fagioli might benefit from more feta cheese (not offered by the server) and, perhaps more garlic."
The news here isn't "more" feta cheese, it's that the pasta e fagioli they're serving has ANY feta cheese. Maybe if the critic had called out that they serve a unique version with feta, I'd take it in stride. But the way the article was written, you'd think that's the way all pasta e fagioli was made.
To be perfectly fair, the Trib's writers are no better. They've reviewed coffeehouses without actually tasting any of the coffee.
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