Restaurants & Bars

Northern New England

First visit to Primo, Rockland, Maine


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Restaurants & Bars Northern New England

First visit to Primo, Rockland, Maine

Pat Hammond | | May 26, 2013 06:27 PM

I had the pleasure of dining at Melissa Kelly's Primo a couple of weeks ago. I've wanted to go there for at least a decade. I was in Maine anyway and we were able to get a reservation. Much of this story will be old hat to the lucky Mainers who can go there when they feel like it. (By the way, since I got home I've read a few recent posts from Primo regulars who've had some disappointments, but for me I have only this one meal, expensive and worth every penny, in every way!)

It's in a big, old house that sort of looms above the street. You can see the garden plots, edible pansies were blooming, and the greenhouses were visible from the parking lot. Pigs and chickens are further back on the property. "Farm to table" for sure!

We were seated in the downstairs dining room, the formal area among 3 maybe 4 other options. It wasn't stuffy in the least, though. And so I ordered a glass of ale, a Peak Organic Summer Wheat--just delicious. There's also a very nice wine list and interesting cocktails.

The amuse bouche was served in a slender liqueur-type glass containing a brownish hot liquid. They call it lobster bisque. It was garnished with a tiny crisp cube of seasoned cornbread and an equally tiny crispy fiddlehead. So I ate that, then took a sip of the briny, intense distillation of lobster flavor. They used tomalley for sure, hence the color. It was like "drinking" a lobster fresh from the steamer!

Appetizer was "octopusa la plancha". A good size tentacle, just tender enough, had been nicely grilled. It wasn't alone on the plate, but I can't remember what else was there! One could easily make a gorgeous meal from the appetizer selection.

The main course was potato gnocchi, with Primo chicken in a cacciatore sauce. The chicken was predictably tender and juicy and the sauce was very complex, with herbs, tomatoes and clamshell mushrooms. I mopped it up with my bread. Gnocchi were as light as air.

By this time, I was nearly comatose. It's possible I had dessert, but I don't remember! The service was warm, friendly and nicely paced. The portions were perfect for me. As a friend used to say, "An elegant sufficiency."

Thanks for reading. It was a very special evening.