Source: In a nation that loves just about every comestible its terroir can put forth, kale is a reminder of the dietary deprivation of World War II that made boiled cabbage an unpleasant fixture of the dinner table. Even here in the city that tends to embrace trends it considers très Brooklyn, kale (so ubiquitous in Brooklyn that it could be named the borough’s official vegetable) evokes the classic Parisian shrug.
But suddenly, there are stirrings of a movement to make France pay attention, led by a 29-year-old American who has transformed herself into the Joan of Arc of kale. This crusader for crucifers, Kristen Beddard, found herself without a job in 2011 after quitting as an Ogilvy & Mather account manager in New York to follow her husband to Paris. She also found herself without a beloved food she had eaten since her childhood in Pittsburgh.