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Manhattan

Trata Estiatorio - review

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Trata Estiatorio - review

Cliff | May 10, 2003 06:30 PM

A few weeks ago six of us sampled the wares at this East Side Greek fish place, and they were terrific. We ordered a variety of appetizers and shared all around. The tarama was perfect -- rich but light, producing sea reveries that I have experienced only with top-notch uni. Saganaki was salty, as expected, but full of flavor, and crisp on the outside, oozing inside. Grilled shrimp were amazingly tender, not overcooked at all, as happens so often. Greek salad with feta was standard, but how unique can it get? Paper-thin, crisp flash-fried zucchini rounds were served with the most luxurious, garlic-y tzatziki, a meal in itself. The entrees are based around various fresh fish, grilled Greek style (meaning simply with lemon and a little oil), deboned when served and priced by the pound. This type of preparation has always seemed promising to me, but has never lived up to memories of similar dishes served just caught on various Greek isles. So I opted for a very nice, intricately seasoned rare tuna steak, while others had various grilled fishes and pronounced them, for the most part, fine. A taste here and there confirmed for me, at least, that grilled fish is best eaten where captured an hour before. The baklava, and the yogurt with fruit and honey sauce were very, very good desserts, although most of us were past our limits. It would not be unreasonable to make a meal out of two appetizers and a dessert here, as these were the standouts. They're on Second Ave. and 60th St.

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