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Bill | | Feb 11, 2002 10:23 AM

Had a wonderful evening at Tosca last Saturday. Arrived at 6:30 and watched the handsome, urbane dining-room quickly fill to capacity by 7:30. Nice menu, not too long, tasting menu offered, great wine list(we enjoyed a Voigner and an Amarone), very good service, fair (though still expensive) prices.

Best pasta was buckwheat ribbon noodles with a boar ragu. Perfectly light pasta with a rich, just-slightly gamey sauce. Worst pasta was a scallop ravioli with a truffle sauce. Hard scallop slices in a hard pasta casing with an almost gritty, tasteless sauce.

Entrees were a beautifully seared rockfish filet over fennel; a wonderful roast partridge with a earthy, flavorful sauce; Veal tenderloin, also cooked to a perfect rosiness; and a rabbit and rabbit sausage dish mired only by a tough wrapping around the loin (couldn't have been a skin, right?...a wrapper of caul fat perhaps?) These last three came with two accompaniments each, one of which was perfectly cooked red chard. The rabbit's second complement was a delicious butternut squash (and goat cheese?) tart.

Deserts included a berry sherbert with fruit, a tiramisu in a large martini glass, a chocolate cake, and I forgot the last.

I think I'm a pretty tough judge when picking up a tab of this size, and Tosca gets my highest marks. I look forward to returning.