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JungMann | | May 24, 2011 06:50 AM

I was pleasantly surprised. I never got the craze for kati rolls, but Village newcomer, Thelewala, has me reconsidering. Their Nizami roll (essentially a kati roll named for Calcutta's premiere kebab slinger) starts with a thin, flaky paratha with a pleasant amoung of chew around the edges. It could definitely be flakier, but that's a common complaint and their paratha still is miles better than the bread I've had elsewhere. The chappli kabab I had was grilled to order. It wasn't made in the chappli shape, so it had me dubious, but the flavor was terrific. The lamb was gamey and juicy and studded with whole coriander seed. I ordered my roll extra spicy and my lips were humming accordingly. Thelewala also sells chaat, snacks based off fried dough, potato and/or legumes. It looked like they do quite a bit of business in phucka (pani-puri), which will definitely be a summertime treat to look forward to.

As far as interior goes, it's one of the nicer kati roll shops out there. The store is tiled and brightly lit with energetic Bollywood remixes pumped in. If you choose to linger there are a few stools tightly wedged into a small counter area. If you go when it's not busy, it's easily manageable, and definitely worth a visit if you are a fan of Kati Roll across the street.

112 MacDougal St, New York, NY 10012

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