Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area Summer

Tasty Pozole at Andale, 125 Summer

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Tasty Pozole at Andale, 125 Summer

joypirate | Mar 26, 2004 02:15 PM

I first hit this place right when Ninelives hipped the list to it and got the carnitas burrito and I really wasn't too wild about it. The carnitas were good but it was overfilled with rice and such, and I may be one of the few who think Herrera's might ultimately be the best burrito in Boston (though I haven't tried Tu y Yo yet). That statement obviously has lots of conditions. Herrera's Pollo Colorado is, for me, the best. Their other beef/pork/chicken combinations don't do that much for me. Their carnitas burrito similarly fails to deliver the pork joy to my mouth.

I hit it again today, enjoying the sunshine and the walk over. I got the pozole, which I'd meant to get the first time but I didn't have enough cash last time for both a burrito and a soup. Anyway, the pozole was really, really good. Though it was quite different than other pozoles I've had. Andale's threw in the tortilla chips for you (makes some sense for the to-go crowd) and all the typical pozole accoutrements were cut in very small pieces and incorporated already in the pozole (avocado, onions, lime zest might have been in their too, itty-bitty bits of cilantro). This seems to succeed as a means of getting as many flavors in your mouth at once. But speaking of pork joy! This pork was done perfectly. Tender, boldly spiced with hints of lime, cut in perfect sized cubes with the perfect amount of fat still clinging to them. The worst part was the chips in the pozole as I like to control how many chips I put in, though I really don't feel they put in too many or too few, I just like the control. I also wouldn't have minded a tortilla to help me greedily slop up the remaining broth with. Actually, there was something different (not bad different, just different) about the broth I couldn't place my finger on. A bit thinner, or made with a lighter kind of oil/fat maybe?

I also tried the chicken tamal in banana leaf w/mole sauce (your choice between mole & verde). Not bad. The banana leaf is a Oaxacan move and my glorious ancestors were of the corn husk persuasion. Also, I've never heard of putting mole sauce on a tamal but I thought the nuts in the mole would go well with the corn meal as one of the recipes from the "Our Lady of Guadalupe" cookbook from my old part-Czech/ part-Mexican neighborhood calls for a smidge of peanut butter in the cornmeal to aid in its consistency. I didn't know if all Mexicans subscribed to this method or just the batty church ladies from my youth. Maybe the nuts would all mingle in happiness? The mole sauce was fine, not perfect but at least they're smart enough to know that if you get the flavor-ratios off in your mole, go ahead and add some more chilis and go down swinging. Chicken was also done really well, plenty of spice. Cornmeal texture was off a bit, a bit too mushy and polenta like, though I wonder if that's just a Oaxacan thing?

All was washed down with a Tamarindo Jarrito soda. Very tasty and appropriate for the weather. Oh, flan lovers (this means you Limster), they've got Flan de Vanilla w/caramel sauce. I didn't tried it, but FYI.

Link: http://chowhound.safeshopper.com/21/c...

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