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Taqueria Dona Raquel, Pompano, followup

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Taqueria Dona Raquel, Pompano, followup

s.m. koppelman | May 26, 2004 07:02 PM

Went to the Pompano location on southbound Dixie Hwy. again and tried bistec a la mexicana, another dish that's usually terrible even at "good" basic Mexican places.

Sure enough, the thin bits of grilled meat were more tender than the norm and fatty enough to add some great flavor. Instead of a wan, thin tomato sauce with limp tomato, peppers and onion, there was no sauce at all, just the vegetables, nicely seasoned and sauteed just right in the meat juices. It was the best version of the dish I've ever had, hands down. It came with a bowl of freshly pressed and grilled corn tortillas swaddled in enough fabric to keep them warm throughout the meal. And their rice and especially their beans need a mention: they've got a wonderful flavor to them that I can't place (not just seared lard ;) ). The beans are delicious mixed in with the rice and unless you're carb-counting you'll dip those tortillas in them.

The mango agua fresca is homemade and tastes like it's comprised largely of fruit pulp. They don't use much ice so if you want it or the horchata or whatever cold, you may want to ask for extra ice. In Spanish.

I'm not sure the kitchen at the Tamarac location, though good, is quite on this level; the cheery, stare-of-the-art rustic decor in Pompano helps too. At the very least the one in Pompano is starting to look like a hell of a find.

No sopapillas, though. Well, at least not on a weeknight.

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