Each time at Sweet & Tart (Flushing branch of this Hong Kong style eatery) we try new dishes. One was a great surprise: steamed black chicken. Tucked inside an ample lotus leaf are hacked pieces of this fragrant bird, slices of Chinese sausage, and three varieties of mushroom, including shitake, in a very light sauce. It was a marvel. We wondered about the origins of this cooking style and so many of the other dishes. The hostess was forthcoming and mentioned that although the chef and creator of Sweet & Tart is from Hong Kong, the menu he created is entirely original, based on available produce and a desire for a healthier cuisine. This is significant, as our friends at the table had lived in mainland China for a period and had never encountered such combinations and personalized use of ingredients.