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Restaurants & Bars Ontario (inc. Toronto)

Swatow's wonton mein

aser | | May 19, 2011 10:55 PM

Still holding the crown of Chinatown, with Goldstone and King's lagging far behind. It's been consistently good, whether it was a decade ago soaking up boozy nights to now, the best fast food in the city.

This is one of the most efficiently run restaurants in the city, like a synchronized colony of ants at work. I can be in and out the door in 20 minutes, without feeling rushed. Tonight my empty bowl sat on the table for 10 seconds before being picked up. My friend finished his a minute later, guess what, same thing happened. They're a well-oiled machine.

As to the bowl itself? The wontons are actually dainty, 2 bite wonders, no chuck e cheese skee ball action here. The shrimp only wonton (99.9% sure) is cooked well, retaining its crunchy texture. Beef brisket is simply awesome here, it retains a deep rich flavour even after soaking in the bowl till the very end. Broth has a darker colour akin to the defunct Big Joy (Richmond Hill), the interplay of pork, shrimp, fih compares well to the kings up north (big joy, jun jun). Topped with scallions (no yellowing chives) the noodles are light on the taste of kansui. It comes perfectly al dente, but will loose firmness after a few minutes. You cannot loaf once it arrives. Do not ask your girlfriend how her day was after you order. Keep your eye on the prize.

The staff always seems to be making small talk w/ their boss, with warm smiles on their face. This is one of the most efficiently run restaurants in the city, like a colony of ants. I can be in and out the door in 20 minutes, without feeling rushed.

I know folks clown on Swatow because it's a late night clubber hangout with your dose of frat boys and miniskirt girls all ordering their individual portioned plates. I've been consistently surprised at how good they maintain their standards for true Canto food (wall dishes) but still serve the gloopy sauced stuff to the gwailo. I like this duality at work here, their multi-market hustle.

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