Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

Suprised by GOBO

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Restaurants & Bars 5

Suprised by GOBO

Iron Frank | Jan 9, 2003 12:42 AM

I expected the worst when I head about this all upscale all vegan menu restaurant with the clunky name. The food was surpisingly tasty and real with actual flavor that I didn't expect from most hyper-PC eateries.

The menu definitely needed the included glossary but maybe a dictionary as well for the chef and his liberal use of traditional meaty terms in a vegan context (tartare and ceviche are just a a couple of examples).

I appreciated the large selection of non-alchoholic beverages but the prices didn't reflect their straight-edged nature. I had a "Liquid Yoga", how embarassingly titled but tasty combo of apricot nectar, seltzer, and herbs. They also serve organic beer and wine.

The tea smoked bean curd appetizer was very similar to mock duck but rolled into a thicker loaf and served in three thick slices. Not as heavy as the Shanghai version though. Everything here had very clean and true flavors.

Main courses included konnyaku with steamed vegetables came with al dente Chinese broccoli, the thin slices of starched placed atop shitake mushrooms. Sizzling tofu pattys in a black pepper sauce maintained an addictive sweet and sour balance.

The service was a bit akward. Apparently management has the staff in fear of interrupting as every employee managed to pardon their reach, loudly, at some point in the meal. Still it's the first high end vegan restaurant that I've enjoyed and I'm glad to have it in my neighborhood.

Enjoy!
Frank

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