Went into Steve's, the Greek place on the corner of Hereford andNewbury Street for the first time in about 5 years, and I decided it's time I became a regular again. The kitchen seems to be going thru a major uphill alert.
I had an appetizer of grilled octopus, which was a meal-sized casserole of pefectly soft, tender, octopus, just crisped at the edges. Chopped into chunks, and tossed with olive oil and vinegar, it made a perfect late lunch, scooped up with fresh pita. My friend had a vegetarian moussaka that was based on non-greasy slices of eggplant, *not* cooked to death, and actually discernable under the custard. Not to mention, the big fresh sald that filled the rest of the platter, liberally covered with feta..
But it was the food on other tables that has me planning my next visit.. Souvlaki roll-ups had sides of home-fried chips on their plates, and every fried dish we saw coming from the kitchen looked so puffy, ethereal and golden that I would have gladly waylaid it, no matter what it was. The biggest thrill was seeing papoutsakia on the specials menu, a home-style Greek treat that I've been looking for for years, and one rarely found in restaurants. It translates to "Little Shoes", which is what the scooped out eggplant or zucchini shells looks like, when they're filled with a mixture of cooked eggplant, ground beef (for the meat version) cheese, and baked covered with Bechamel sauce...I didn't notice a veggie version, so someone, *please* go try it and report back! Now that things are looking up, I'm back there for my old favorite, the octopus stefado.
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