went today and checked it out. some of the words that come to mind are: hype, fluff, rip-off, bullxxxx. mostly it's tiny little portions of extremely overpriced, not that well prepared gourmet wannabe food for the upper middle class, trust funders and self indulgent hipsters. where else in the world is there a place where, as street food, small little pretentious sandwiches cost $10 ? given the size of the portions, it can easily take 3 little of these smaller bites, which oftten go for $6 a piece, to fill you up for lunch. then a drink and a desert and you've spent $25 for lunch. for street food? the whole thing just feels like an excercise in a self conscious, class conscious, self indulgent theatre of elitism. sure, i guess i'm glad that brooklyn is becoming a place where a new, young generation of food geeks are producing high end products, but to me it feels like it's all about profit and being cool and not about nourishing or really feeding people. yeah, someone will say that they got a cemita for $9 and were full afterwards. but a better cemita is to be had on the streets of jackson heights for $5.
sure, there are a few good things there that aren't a rip-off, like dough donuts and blue marble ice cream, but there's just no way that street food should be so expensive and precious and pretentious. take for example porchetta, where they give you two small slices of roast pork on a slider sized bun and call it a day for $5. when i asked for a bit more meat, they grimaced, made a rude comment and acted like i'd offered to abduct their children, as if i was trying to rip them off. ok, i get it, gourmet food isn't supposed to be for everyone or for everyone's wallet. but the last time i was in my kitchen i found it pretty easy to make pickles, roast pork or even make mayonnaise. these are all low cost things to do. charging out the wazoo for them is just obnoxious. yeah, i understand that these vendors feel they deserve to be able to live uppermiddleclass lives by preparing fancy food. but come on, a day in the sun shouldn't cost a couple $50 for lunch. and that's why smorgasburg attracts such a homogenous crowd, and i'm not talking racially, i'm talking class-wise. if this is the future of new york city, i don't want to be a part of it. the whole thing made me lament the loss of the old red hook ballfields, where honest, unpretentious people sold filling portions of hearty food to folks from all walks of life. instead, smorgasburg is an excercise in self congratulatory attitude, where the usual hipster menu items are beat to death once more.
27 N 6th St, Brooklyn, NY 11211