Restaurants & Bars


SLC's The Paris finally gets it right!


Restaurants & Bars

SLC's The Paris finally gets it right!

Tha Groovin' Gourmet | Jan 9, 2006 11:57 AM

We've been dining around the area the last few days with the lovely Denise's nephew-in-law in advance of his impending move. Naturally
we've done our ethnic Big 3...Red Iguana, Thai Garden and Mazza, but we were at a loss where to go on a Sunday night.

The Paris was indeed open, n-i-l Mike liked the sound of bistro fare, and the 40% Rewards Network rebate sealed the deal.

Off we went into the snowy/sleety night, passing a handful of wrecks and spinouts on the Belt Loop as we headed to the corner of 15 and 15.

What ensued was everything we'd been hoping this place would become. Our server William was excellent. On top of everything, personable, knowledgable and available. And the food was top notch from beginning to end.

We made sure they had oysters, and were informed that Malaspinas were being served. Works for us. The Oyster Paris are every bit as good as we had been led to believe by Rooney and others.

Very delicate dish with emerald green sauteed baby spinach, in a vermouth beurre blanc with a little dollop of caviar on top. Lovely.

Denise and Mike split the Paris salad, and this time the kitchen did the right thing and split the portion to 2 plates before serving them. The combination of glazed pecans, goat cheese and pear in mustard vinaigrette received a hearty 2 thumbs up.

I had the roasted beet salad with arugula, in a just-right-bright lemon dressing with the optional goat cheese for 2 more semolians. Very nice execution of this classic combination. Excellent balance of sweet, bitter, sour with a trifecta of textural interplay. Big chunks of gorgeous deep red beets, big dollops of goat cheese made for a nice sized portion that I would order again and again.

Entrees continued the parade of hits. My lamb shank with homemade papardelle from the seasonal menu was fabulous, as I am sure my leftovers will be today.

Mike went with the Steak Tartare (with William handling the matter much more subtly than Mr. Tartare on our first visit) and it was excellent. Frites were ordered extra crisp and so they were...every
bit as good as Mon Ami Gabi? Might just be arguable...that's probably my choice for next visit.

Also from the seasonal menu was Denise's Elk Loin with Chile Relleno with Walnut and Pomegranate Sauces was exquisite, the medallions a lovely ruby rare, and wonderful flavors from the relleno.

When it came time to pack up the leftovers, William asked if it was OK to put the Elk and the Lamb in the same box. I immediately launched into the whining child "They're touching, they're touching!" schtick which has become a standard routine for me and the missus for lo these many years.

Our doggie box was delivered labeled "Elk and Lamb Touching" with the date (like the box is going to be around long enough for that to be an issue). Nice little extra touch that

Dessert course was also superb. D and M both had the almond pear tart with orange blossom gelato (great tart, gelato too perfumy for me)
I went with their signature molten chocolate cake with hazelnut gelato
and candied orange peel which was kickin' butt and takin' names.

A couple of gorgeously capped capuccinos and a framboise and I was one happy camper. Total with tip (Mike offered up $40 for it) came to $228, but it will be only about $137 after the kickback. If we could be sure to get food and service of this caliber every time we went, I'd almost be willing to pay full pop should they leave Rewards Network.

But for right now, any 'hounds living in or heading for Salt Lake should sign up at and enjoy a most fine bistro experience for a heckuva fair price. Just make sure to ask for William
when you make your reservation.

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