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Sitting at the Charcuterie Bar in Windsor’s Bistro M


Restaurants & Bars San Francisco Bay Area

Sitting at the Charcuterie Bar in Windsor’s Bistro M

Melanie Wong | | Jun 18, 2010 12:09 AM

Two weeks ago I popped into newish Bistro M on the Windsor Town Green for a late lunch. Shades down, no hours posted nor an “open” sign. For all intents, the place looked closed at 2pm. But I tried the door which was unlocked, then poked my head in to see if the bistro was open. I think I startled the hostess but she regained her composure quickly to greet me warmly.

Directly ahead, the oyster/charcuterie bar offered a few seats overlooking the open kitchen. Here’s the day’s oyster offerings, priced at $1.75 each.

And, the charcuterie selection posted over the bar. Served with housecured pickled vegetables, greens and mustard, a plate of three selections is $12.

Bistro M stays open between lunch and dinner, offering an all-day menu at that time. Besides the oysters and charcuterie, this includes the items on the “Avec Frites” menu:
Flatiron steak with onion jam
Boudin blanc tartine
Chicken salad tartine
Vegetable & brie tartine
Croque madame
Lamb neck

Eating alone, I took a seat at the charcuterie bar. I had a bird's eye view of the chef enrobing this Croque Madame, $10, with a luscious mornay sauce.

Then he tossed the frites with seasonings and added them to all the plates.

Half-jokingly I called out to him to save one for me to taste. And, voila! He gave me this little plate with three piping hot, seasoned frites.

On this hot and muggy day, a cold lunch of charcuterie and veggies sounded good to me. I picked the trout rillettes, duck liver mousse and house-cured salmon, all made in-house. Of the day’s menu, the pork pate was also housemade.

Accompanied by lightly dressed salad greens, a quenelle of whole grain mustard, really good housemade pickles, and bread and butter, this was just the right amount for a light lunch. Thickly cut salmon (like gravlax without the dill), intense and earthy duck liver mousse, and my favorite, the trout rillettes (once warmed up a bit from ice-cold), all well-executed and delicious. I was a happy camper.

I downed the 750ml of ice water in carafe and didn’t look at the wine list. Yet I did note that the corkage is $11 per bottle, waived per bottle purchased, which is a good deal.

The extended hours through mid-day will be handy for wine-tasting visitors who sometimes lose track of the hour and get shut out of other dining establishments. The lunch and dinner menus are the same here. There’s also a Sunday brunch menu offering a sweetbreads benedict that’s calling my name. My friendly waitress said that the place is very busy on Sundays with shoppers from the morning farmers market on the Town Green.

What else have chowhounds tried here?

Bistro M
610 McClelland Dr, Windsor, CA 95492

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