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Sir and Star at The Olema

Kayde | | Apr 26, 2013 03:50 PM

This month we went to Sir and Star at The Olema - dropped in Easter weekend and a few weeks later midweek. Margaret Grade and Daniel DeLong opened their new restaurant on the ground floor of the old Olema Hotel – the corner where Sir Francis Drake meets Star Route 1. For those who remember Manka’s, the style at Sir and Star is casual (brown paper over the tables) and modestly priced. Check menu and photos.

Quality is high as ever and food still comes from within a short radius. One night the crab fishermen were having dinner at the next table. Small plates were grouped by price - $10 and $20 plates with a few $5 sides - and we tried to sample one after another.

$10 plates: Trio of Tomales Bay Oysters served in shot glasses with oyster jelly and a bright bit of acid. Pair of salads varies daily – we had lightly dressed little gems and arugula. My favorite by far was the Duck Egg broken over bubble-and-squeak: chopped cabbage, leeks, potatoes and chunks of meaty bacon. I could make a habit of just that combination of rich, meaty, earth, salt, sweet and crunch.

$20 plates: Crab with lemon aoili-style dip was fresh and sweet. Quail with kale came nestled against a mound of miner’s lettuce – great finger food. Pork Parts were braised belly with meatballs: rich, tender, delicious. Green Bouillabaisse is a happy combination of vegetables and deserves to be enjoyed by more than vegetarians.

For dessert ($10) they serve house-made ice cream with a variety of toppings. I liked virgin olive oil with salt.

They’re still figuring out some kinks with the new theme, including staffing, and it's good that they are now on OpenTable. They were about to begin Saturday night chef’s dinners, and we plan to return for those, but the small plates menu is excellent and relatively accessible. They appear to be drawing locals as well as people who popped by after a day on the trails. I hope it’s a good combination for them.

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