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Sakura 1 on Convoy (S.D.) Again

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Sakura 1 on Convoy (S.D.) Again

e.d. | Nov 15, 2002 10:53 AM

Kazu, the owner/sushi chef at Sakura, has achieved his goal of near total anonymity, as there is now no sign for his restaurant streetside or over the entranceway in the Original Pancake House stripmall on Convoy. As you enter the stripmall, Sakura is between the two signs for the army recruiters under the Japanese lanterns. The sign on the door proclaiming that they don't make California rolls is the guarantee that you are entering the right place.

I've already raved about this place enough (OK, almost enough) but I just wanted to add notes from my last two or three visits there. The last time, I reminded him that I liked all kinds of sushi, and the sushi combinations that he served me actually came with two kinds of fish I don't remember ever having before--and I've been eating sushi for 20 years. And of course all the fish was outstanding. But some of the other dishes are also really good: the natto/raw fish combination showed off very well the earthy, funky, sliminess that is natto; the eel & cucumber dish was a perfect seafood salad--the tastes and textures of the large chunks of eel and finely sliced cucumber were balanced perfectly by a light vinigerette; and the soup (the name of which I have forgotten) that I had with my sushi last time had a fused mass of uni, spinach, tofu, and egg in a light seafood broth. While the flavors were subtle, the dish was a perfect complement to the sushi combinations, as there was no strong taste to overpower the succulent slices of raw fish. When I first started going there, I thought of Sakura as just a sushi bar, but the other dishes have been so uniformly excellent that now I try to order something different from the menu on each visit.

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