We arrived at Roseval with reduced expectations, aware that Erika, the quite amazing and charasmatic som was on sabatical. We were warmly greeted and immediately introduced to Martin, who quickly showed his expertise.
While the format is similar to Le Galopin, short no choice menu (45€), the plates are interestingly much more understandable while still not classic. Entree of duck heart with carrot puree and pickled onions, first plat of calimar atop tomato "soup", lamb two ways as main: long-boned rib chop and large chunk of juicy braised shoulder. Panna cotta pre-dessert and "split milk" glace and ice-milk with fruit.
Every plate was very good and I was able to parce enough to take home several ideas. But Martin was the star of the evening. He dragged out tremendously interesting and esoteric wines for each course, was totally engaged and engaging, spending time providing backstory for the wines and rationale for his choices. Pairings are 25€.
So, the food was interesting if not mind-boggling, wines were both delightful and a bargain. As we left, we learned that Erika, not surprisingly, has moved on to new challenges, and Martin is our new hero.