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Rockenwagner Report

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Restaurants & Bars

Rockenwagner Report

JudiAU | May 23, 2003 07:51 PM

Rockenwagner has been redesigned to separate the restaurant into a small café, brasserie, and formal dining room. The room retains its wit, although, sadly, the giant asparagus spear is missing. Each “room” is marked with a sign. The formal dining room is a large wooden box, the entrance to which contains a massive restored German meat slicer with a fat ham on it.

The brasserie menu is large and mid-priced. All of the entrees are under $20, all starters are less than $10, with the exception of the fois gras.

We started with a pound of white asparagus served with boiled potatoes, house made mayonnaise and vinaigrette split three ways. $36 The kitchen split it for us which was a nice touch. Rockenwagner is the only restaurant in LA that imports white asparagus and it was truly wonderful. Tender, with a musky, butter flavor, the huge spears didn’t need either of the sauces. If you have ever wondered what the fuss is about—try it. The season ends in another two weeks. Perfect with a half bottle of Austrian Riesling.

I had the skate wing which was sautéed in butter, served with buttery mashed potatoes, white asparagus (worth $8 based on the per pound price), and a butter sauce. It was great, but I couldn’t help think of the poor woman on the general topics menu being poisoned by buttery fish dishes.

Husband has pork belly with spaetzle. I thought it was tough, but he liked it. Father-in-law had the veal goulash, also served with spaetzle. We thought the spaetzle was better than Spago’s. Spago’s goulash is better.

Portions were large. In the future, we’ll stick to two appetizers and finish with a pound of the asparagus.

Dessert was impossibility. Service was good. Wine was better.

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