We stopped at River Deli on Joralemon for dinner on Friday night on one of those best and loveliest evenings. We were reluctant to miss a minute of it, but their doorway beckoned, appealingly cozy even on a warm evening.. There were a fair number of strollers to be breached, but the place had a comfortable elbow room.
We started with a generous salumi and cheese platter (okay, there were two sizes and we ordered the larger). At $15 it was impressive; served on a wooden platter the meats and cheeses, scattered with olives, cherry tomatoes, walnuts, orange wedges and some really nice cantaloupe. Nice counterpoint. There was also a flatbread that looked uninteresting but actually had plenty of character, a traditional Sardinian flat bread called pane carasau.
After the salumi we knew we weren’t going to make it past the primi, so we ordered those: a lasagna for me, traditional and as good as I have had recently, and malloredus sardi alla campidanese for him. This was a short Sardinian pasta, saffron-flavored, with sausage, tomato sauce and pecorino cheese. We had to work around the malodorous-sounding name and the pasta that looked rather like a plateful of grubs, but it was really good. These were both primi-sized, not an entrée if you have an appetite, but after that meat platter we weren’t feeling cheated.
We like the feel of the place but I really think they might have punched up the name, famous or not. It reminded us of a kinder, gentler Frankie's 457.
32 Joralemon St, Brooklyn, NY 11201
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