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Review: Fenix Eatery & Bar - Phoenix (w/ photos!)

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Review: Fenix Eatery & Bar - Phoenix (w/ photos!)

Seth Chadwick | Aug 4, 2007 03:01 AM

One of the great benefits of food blogging is not only the great food I encounter, but also some of the other fellow bloggers out there that appreciate the finer points of a great cheese crisp or a delicious meal at a white linen tablecloth type of restaurant. For some time now, I have been exchanging emails and comments on food boards with Tim (Firenza00 on this board) and Tara (tara17 on this board) and we decided to meet up at some new-to-us restaurant to see if we could tolerate each other in person instead of just online, and for them to strong arm me for information on J., Madge, and other people in my life.

After some discussion we decided on Fenix Eatery & Bar located at 40th Street and Camelback in the small strip mall on the southwest corner. I made reservations for 7 PM and I arrived first, checking in and taking a seat. I recognized Tim and Tara from their descriptions and walked them back to the table which was at the very back of the dining room right in front of the kitchen. After taking our seats, our server arrived with menus and told us of the specials. I was the only one who ordered a beverage, a Diet Coke for $2.50.

We were already involved in intense discussions about restaurants when our server returned asking if we were ready to order. We weren’t, so we focused on the menu which featured a decent array of selections. After some thought, we placed our order. Tim and Tara started their meal with the Onions Soup Gratinee ($7.00 each) and I chose the Mixed Field Greens Salad ($5.00). Our entrees included the Long Island Ducking A L’Orange ($19.00) for Tim, the Coq Au Vin ($19.00) for Tara, and the Paillard of Pork ($17.00) for myself. To add to their meal, Tim and Tara ordered the Macaroni & Cheese ($8.00) while I asked for an order of the French Fries ($5.00).

Our server departed and we began discussing Madge’s hairdos. The look of horror on the faces of Tim and Tara was priceless when I told them about Madge showing up at Durant’s in a traditional beehive hairdo. We also discussed all things Minnesota since Tara is from Minnesota and I think I surprised her by knowing what “hot dish” was or that you could go to Taco John’s for Mexican food or that pasties were all the rage. I did forget to mention Jell-O molds with floaty bits in them. In return, Tara told me all about how crunched up potato chips will make any dish that much better. I immediately thought that potato chips on a cheese crisp is the Devil. D. E. V. I. L. Tim just smiled along knowingly.

Our server returned with a fresh Diet Coke and also a baskek of bread. In the basket was three medium-sized pieces of very dense bread. One was plain on top and the other two were seasoned with poppy and sesame seeds. The bread itself was very good. The density was appealing to me and I think it was as well to Tim and Tara as we gobbled our respective loaves up quickly. I liked the fact that they served it with unsalted butter, but the butter was rather hard and I had difficulty spreading it.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c20...

My Field Green Salad arrived on a very large plate and a mound of salad to accompany it. The various greens were a dark green, crisp and fresh. I liked the addition of the seeded tomato skins that were set out in a decorative pattern. The sherry vinaigrette dressing was outstanding. It only had a slight air of sweetness, but a very pungent and tart vinegary edge that made it a winner in my book. The salad was simple, pretty and delicious. I was very happy with this selection.

The Onion Soup Gratinee arrived for Tim and Tara and the little crocks of soup sported a classical presentation of the soup. The crocks were layered with a film of melted cheese on top. Both dove into their soups and the initial reaction was a positive one. Both said the soup was very good with a robust broth. Tim and Tara said there was plenty of cheese on top, but Tim noted - with Tara in agreement - that the soup simply wasn’t hot enough. “It needs to be about 10 or 11 degrees hotter,” Tim stated. Unfortunately, the temperature wasn’t hot enough to melt the cheese fully and the cheese began to coagulate into a large chunk which wasn’t very pleasing to Tara. Still, they did like the flavor of the soup and did a good job of erasing all signs of the soup.

Shortly after Tim and Tara had finished their soups, they were presented with smaller versions of my salad. The presentation was identical, only in miniature form. I was a bit disappointed that there had been no notation on the menu or by our server that a salad was served as a precursor with our meals. Had that happened, I would have selected one of the other starters. Tim and Tara enjoyed the salad and agreed the dressing was outstanding.

As we waited for our entrees, I got a chance to take in the interior. It certainly wasn’t upscale French nor French bistro, but it had a nice New York hip feel to it. The seating was comfortable and the decoration was minimalist. I thought the space was well thought out. Our only concern was the lighting which was exceptionally low. So low that I had problems reading the menu and Tim noted that he would have problems seeing his entree when it arrived.

We waited about 15 minutes before our entrees arrived. Tara’s Coq Au Vin was a deep, rustic French chicken stew including pearl onions, bacon and mushrooms. It was a deep brown color and was served with a small side of sliced potatoes. Tara seemed to like the dish, especially the bacon. She did mention that the chicken seemed a bit on the dry side, but the burgundy gravy helped to vanquish the dryness.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c20...

Tim’s Long Island Duck A L’Orange looked like it was a half of a duck as it filled half the plate. It was covered with a dark, rich orange glaze and served with a wild rice mix and some sauteed vegetables. Tim said he enjoyed the duck, but due to the lighting he was having to feel around the duck with his knife and fork to know where to cut because he couldn’t clearly see his meal. He said the duck was moist and flavorful. He found the wild rice side dish to be rather mundane, shrugging his shoulders a bit when I asked him how the rice was.

My Paillard of Pork was two slices of pork breaded in Panko and then pan fried. They were sitting in a sweet peppercorn sauce and served with sliced potatoes and sauteed vegetables. The pork was very good, but I thought it was a bit on the tough side, although by the end of the meal, I felt that it was more of a rubbery issue than a toughness. But it was a minor problem. The Panko was a good choice to coat the pork, I thought. The winner, though, was the sauce. It was amazing. The sweetness made it rich and full-bodied but I didn’t detect much in the way of peppercorn. The potatoes and vegetables were pleasant, but nothing amazing.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c20...

Tim and Tara’s Macaroni & Cheese was served in a large shallow bowl. The elbow macaroni was coated in a creamy cheese sauce and then topped with grated cheese. Tara said the cheese was Gruyere. I thought the serving size was rather meager for the $8.00 price tag. Both Tim and Tara said the Macaroni & Cheese was good, but I got the sense it could have been better. Tara said that it might be even better with crunched up potato chips on top.

Moving right along…

My French Fries were a large plate of crispy shoestring potatoes. They were golden brown and piping hot when they arrived at the table. The serving was substantial and they were perfectly cooked, but they were devoid of any seasoning whatsoever. A good shake of salt made things much better, but the fries were outstanding when dragged through the remaining sweet peppercorn sauce that was sitting on my plate.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c20...

After finishing our meals, our server asked us if we were interested in dessert. Tim asked for a menu, but our server brought over a tray featuring three desserts. I passed on anything sweet while Tim and Tara decided to split an order of the Chocolate Profiterols ($7.00). Only a few minutes passed and the dessert arrived. Three large, round profiterols sat on a white plate trimmed with whipped cream and a large fresh strawberry. Tim and Tara raved about the dessert. Dark chocolate was used in the making of the dessert and I think this was the highlight of the meal for both of them.

We finished our meals and our bill was presented. The total was $104.32 which included tax. I thought it was an okay value. The service was efficient and engaging, but not overbearing.

We continued on with our conversation and obviously were having a good time because before we knew it, it was 9:30 PM. We said our goodbyes and headed home. I enjoyed Fenix and there were some other things on the menu that would draw me back. I did not think the restaurant was fantastic nor the best French food in the Valley, but it was a nice place to have in Arcadia. I also enjoyed my time with Tim and Tara and hope that we can check out another restaurant together in the very near future.

However, I think I would keep any potato chips away from Tara.

Fenix Eatery & Bar
3943 East Camelback Road
Phoenix, AZ 85018
Dress: Casual
Hours: Monday through Friday - 11 AM to 3 PM and 5 PM to 2 AM; Saturday - 5 PM to 2 AM. Closed Sunday.
Notes: Limited late night menu available 10 PM to 2 AM.
Alcohol: Full bar service and wine list.
Website: www.fenixeatery.com

Additional photos can be found at www.feastinginphoenix.com

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Fenix Bar & Eatery
3943 E Camelback Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85018

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