So after all the help from chowhound I wanted to report back on our experiences in Venice this October:
Wed after arriving from NY we went to Cantinone del Vino Gia Schiavi for wine and small sandwiches. Delicious first experience. We were going to go to dinner to Ai 4 Feri but literally next door was La Bitta. We thought the atmosphere at La Bitta was way more romantic and cozy for our first night. Feri looked more like a pizza parlor place,in terms of atmosphere. Very bright; just a personal choice. We were extremely jet lagged at this point which might have influenced our opinion. But we did not like the waiter or the people at the La Bitta and probably ended up making a wrong choice. Should have stuck with chowhound recommendations. Food was OK but very heavy; not great. Hardly remember what I had really.
Thur: we had lunch at Alle Testiere( pouring rain; hard to find the place as first time in Venice and hard to see way through all the umbrellas); very good. I had razor clams to start; yum! Husband had a large shrimp in garlic sauce. Also excellent; as main course I had a local fish and hubby had pasta with clams (sorry about not writing down Italian actual names. We did take pictures of each course, which was touristy enough. Couldn’t spend time writing everything down too). Of course as tiramisu lovers we had to try that for dessert. And we also had a lite chocolate cake dessert with whip cream and other delicious things. The whole meal was wonderful. The service was great too; there was a couple from NY sitting next to us and they were real foodies. Their food also looked very good and they enjoyed the place although they didn’t think it as good as their dinner the other night at a place I have already forgotten.
Thurs dinner was at Fiaschetteria Toscana. We liked this so much we went back for dinner the next night! I kept the receipt so can say exactly what we had: first course: Cappesante Nostra Forno ( Scallops) and Gamberetti Con Polenta; excellent! Next course was Gnocchi Porcini and Tagliolini Tartufo. The tagliolini was expensive ( 34 euros but divine; had to try truffles once while in Europe. Then we had our sides. We had ordered Fondi Di Carciofo, which was the most disappointing, as it was mushy. But artichokes really aren’t in season so we shouldn’t have ordered. We also had Verdure Fritte; dessert was Crème Brule’ and Crostata Crème Fichi (a fig tart); we were stuffed but the whole meal and experience was a delight. Again we made reservations for the next night as we enjoyed the meal so much
Friday we went out to Murano and just had a sandwich at a deli for lunch. Dinner was supposed to be at Antiche Carampane but the only reservations we could get were for 9:30 PM, which was very late for us considering we were picking up a rental car in the morning to go to Austria. This is another reason we ate at Fiaschetteria Toscana again on Friday night. For starters we had Tagliolini Neri Astice and Sogliolette in Saor( had to try Saor at least once while in Venice). Very good. For main course we had Spaghetti Cozze Mazzanco and Tagliata Lombo Chianina with a salad to split; for dessert we had Rovesciata Di Mele Caramele and Crostata Alle Mandorle. Highly recommend Fiaschetteria Toscana.
We had wine with our lunches and dinners but I didn’t note them as we are not wine connoisseurs and generally are happy with whatever the waiters recommend. This time they did not steer us wrong and we enjoyed the wine immensely throughout Italy. All in all I liked Venice but the food cannot compare to Bologna (see separate post) where we went for two days after our week in Austria (see separate post). Also we liked the food best in Southern Italy from last year’s trip (mostly Puglia)
Dorsoduro 2753A, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Venezia 30123, IT
Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT
Ai 4 Feri
Calle Lunga de San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2754, Venice, Veneto 30123, IT
Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT
Calle del Mondo Novo,Sestiere Castello,5801, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT