Restaurants & Bars

rave on pop

yvonne johnson | Dec 10, 2000 01:54 PM

Pop, 127 4th Ave (bet 12 and 13th), 767-1800 is really good, and deserves more than the one star awarded by NYT. It’s not without some quirks (later), but this was one of the most interesting meals I’ve had in a while.

Thanks, Martha for some tips, especially on seafood. I read that the chef, Brian Young, is formerly of Le Bernadin, and it shows. Apps: shrimps in the most delicate of pastry magnificent. Tuna tartare very good. Pizza with mushroom(enough for a main, now I see confusion between apps and mains mentioned by previous poster), thin base and tasty non-cloying ingredients was superb. Frisee salad with goat cheese and beets was a little sour for my taste, but different. My main: special, scallops (dived for rather than dredged, I was told) with courgette risotto very fine. Scallops small and sweet. I also tried short ribs (delish), and the sesame coated sea bass on ginger noodles—I’m having that when I return. Desserts: I had spoonfuls of the pear tart with creme fresh (tart and juicy), and my chum who ordered the pumpkin crème brulee enjoyed it (but I’m not so keen on nutmeg and this was not for me).

The room is spare but for a strip of neon lights on the wall. They play pop (of course) music. U2’s new album (I’m a sucker for this band, so happy) and the like. Beautiful male waiters very much in evidence.

Quirks. The maitre d’ showed the four of us to our table. It didn’t seem to register to him or the other staff that we couldn’t sit down encumbered in our winter coats down to our ankles, hats and gloves (it was snowing today!). Then I realized why the staff couldn’t register. They were wearing ear phones, in touch with the kitchen maybe but not the cloakroom needs of the customer. Martinis good, though not cold enough. White wine in ice bucket not retrieved when needed. However, these minor flaws did not really detract from the truly wonderful food.

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