Restaurants & Bars 4

Range Report

chefinthecity | Dec 19, 2006 07:14 PM

While my boyfriend was eating at Nate's BBQ with a friend - I opted to try Range out for myself. I walked in and was promptly seated at the bar. I was struck by the decor - i thought it was beautiful, the pale wood, the soft lighting. It was classy and elegant while still being casual.

I ordered a glass of their Pinot Noir from the bartender, while i looked over the menu. I ended up ordering their chicken liver mousse with frisee salad as an appetizer, and for my entree I ordered their half roasted chicken with an almond, mushroom and ancho cress bread salad with meyer lemon vinaigrette. Normally I don't order chicken at restaurants, and stupidly i ordered it for both courses - but I find it hard to not order Chicken liver anything when I see it on a menu, just to check out how its prepared. As for the chicken entree - it honestly seemed like the least predictable thing on the menu (to me). Everything else has either been served (or a variation of) at restaurants i've worked at, or are similar to things on the menu at the restaurant I cook at now.

My chicken liver mousse came - I was suprised to see that my "frisee salad" consisted of a small tuft of frisee the size of a few cotton balls. No worry though - it was delicious and dressed with thinly sliced chives, which went very well with the richness of the mousse - i only wished there was more of it! The bartender poured me a taste of the Louis Roederer Rose, to offset the butterness of the mousse - and it was just that - very buttery and heavy. But wonderful. It was prepared traditionally - in a ramekin, slightly chilled, with a few toasts alongside.
It was good - but I wish i'd ordered something else.

Next came my Chicken entree. It was beautifully prepared - really crispy skin, juicy meat with a small "bread salad" in between the two thigh pieces. I didn't see much of the "meyer lemon vinaigrette" that was stated on the menu - although everything tasted alright, I thought it could benefit from another sauce - an aioli? even an extra drizzle of the vinagrette would've made the dish just that much better. The skin of the chicken was just a touch too salty for my taste - but it was crispy and perfect otherwise.
As for the bread salad - it consisted of croutons (made from the same bread used in the toasts, and for the table bread) lightly sauteed oyster mushrooms and a few sprigs of ancho cress. Oh yeah, and about 3-4 slivers of almonds. All the flavors went together well - but there was a huge amount of chicken compared to the tiny amount of bread salad.

All in all everything was solid - well prepared, looking flawless, strong flavors - but I was a victim to over-hyping!! I can't believe this restaurant has a Michelin star alongside Chez Panisse. Its not a bad restaurant, its just not better than SO MANY other restaurants that don't have stars. This is only one person's opinion from one snap judgement made from one meal - and i'm not arguing about it - but the whole michelin guide would benefit from a vast re-editing and re-critique of the restaurants they chose to put in there - oh yeah, not to mention all the obvious typos and factual errors included in it. Lets just wait and see how different the 2008 edition is.

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