I'm planning my mother's 60th Birthday Dinner this summer and I'm looking for an old-school, white tablecloth traditional Italian in Queens that is a combination of fancy(dress-up) and comfortable. Want to be sure that she and and her friends feel like they're having a nice time out while also making sure that the Manhattan snobs (myself included) will be pleased with the food as well. Cost no object and would have done it in the city but she insists on not straying far from home. Thought about Trattora L'incontro (haven 't been) but wasn't sure if she'll think it's sophisticated enough (she really has a thing for white tablecloths).
Suggestions? Advice? Help!