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Restaurants & Bars 5

Polistina's

iron frank | Nov 4, 2001 06:55 PM

I tried the pizza at Polistina's on Broadway(81st?). It was pretty disappointing. The place is owned by the Ollie's/Carmines/Virgil's clan. At least the food at Virgil's is consistently pleasing. Maybe it was the squeaky clean "vintage" Italian food ad posters or the lack of a visible pizza maker or oven which set my spider senses tingling. It definately felt a little mall/Italian Theme restaurantish. I ordered a family size spring salad as a starter and my mother in-law ordered an individual sized chicken caesar as her entree. They both came at the same time and the waiter insisted it was appropriate when I questioned why they were the exactly same size. The pizza toppings sounded enticing as they had some deluxe toppings for 3 dollars like house made meatballs, and prosciutto.

My wife and I opted for a "small" $16 anchovie pizza which ended up being very large. (My father in law and brother inlaw had leftovers from their small pepperoni. No challenge for me though.) At least the dough was rolled thin but the crust at the edge was THICK. Like an inner-tube of dough surrounding a pile of overcheesed pizza(they "parmesaned" the hole thing without my asking). It was pretty greasy and leaden. Everything seemed overdone ala Carmine's. A sea of anchovies. A comforter of cheese keeping the crust all warm, sleepy, and limp. The flavor of the sauce was good at least and in any other major city without any pizza heritage this would be a mighty fine pie, best in town. But here...You expect better(but rarely get it). Still if you're going to the Museum of Natural History it's probably the best pie nearby. Next time though I'll try Cafe La Grolla.

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