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"Perfect" burgers and fries at Sparky's in Williamsburg

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"Perfect" burgers and fries at Sparky's in Williamsburg

New Havener | Feb 11, 2004 04:36 PM

Recognizing that there are myriad versions of perfection in this arena, I have recently had ONE kind of perfect burger-and-fries at this high-quality no-frills place in Williamsburg. The $6 burger-box special was a big pile of crisp, just-salty-enough fries on waxed paper and a classic burger that looked and tasted like what I imagine (but seldom actually find) when I'm craving one - very flavorful, well-textured meat (patty neither a softball nor a credit card), fresh LTO, great bacon and cheese (these were 75 cents extra, I think).

We also had a chili dog that was equally "perfect" and an excellent creamsicle shake.

The owner has clearly put a lot of care into the shop - all meat ingredients are Niman Ranch, the buns are custom baked locally, veggies are organic, shakes are old-fashioned. The whole thing seems to represent the slightly anal pursuit of an ideal hamburger and hotdog stand. As such it's the diametrical opposite of the city's $40 foie gras burgers (which also have their place) - this food doesn't seem unique, until you think of all the other places that try to make food like this and fail.

Go and eat.

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