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Oliveto cafe report

Robert Lauriston | Nov 14, 2004 12:38 PM

Had a great meal in Oliveto's downstairs cafe last night.

To start we had beet greens and farro soup ($7) and wilted red cabbage salad with pancetta and walnuts ($9.50). Both were dark, earthy dishes (one of Paul Bertolli's fortes) just right for a chilly night.

Next chicken cannelloni ($13.50) and pizza topped with salt cod, radicchio, and red onion ($12). Drank a bottle of Bolzane moscato giallo, lovely example of the Alto Adige dry style ($31).

For dessert, a rich, only slightly sweet persimmon pudding in a puddle of creme anglaise and a buttery pecan and caramel tart with vanilla ice cream ($8.50 each). Latter was a nice foil for a sip of Macallan 12 ($10 for a perhaps mistakenly generous pour).

Since we were just talking about it I paid close attention to the servings and we did get smaller portions of soup and cannelloni than at the average Italian restaurant. But those dishes were also so rich that the servings seemed quite reasonable. Not to mention that with the current pastry chef I most definitely want to have room for dessert.

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