On the southernmost block of Eldridge Street, literally in the shadow of the ancient synagogue with its weird blend of Gothic and Moorish architecture, are almost a dozen bare-bones, hole-in-the-wall restaurants serving noodles, fish balls and rice casseroles to a predominantly (actually, exclusively) Fujianese crowd. At one of them, they told me I couldnt eat there because I wasnt Chinese, but when I answered in Chinese the diners chorused "let him in" and they did. That restaurant is gone, but two others have opened that advertise Lanzhou noodles. I went to one last night, Golden Dragon, 7 Eldridge. They also serve stuff like cowfoot casserole and viscera in special sauce, but I ordered the noodles. There was a choice of 20 toppings, and I chose beef penis. As soon as I ordered, the noodle maker near the cash register slammed a was of dough on the table, stretched it, braided it, cut it into noodles and ran it into the kitchen, where it was cooked in a clear, flavorful beef broth and the requested topping added in. It was quite good; the beef had a subtle yet earthy flavor, the broth was good, the noodles were doughy, like fresh pasta. It wasnt a great culinary epiphany but it was definitely worth the experience.