Smack bang in the middle of Cheshire’s Golden Triangle, the Bull’s Head has always seemed an odd place . Although in a rural setting, the building has always struck me that it wouldn’t be out of place on the edge of some sprawling 1930s estate. It was always a manky unappealing boozer in the 1970s. At some point, I think I recall it became aBeefeater or carvery sort of place. In recent times, it’s been a dismal, expensive Italian restaurant that offered some of the worst value for money food in North Cheshire. Now, at last, something is going well.
It’s been refurbished and, definitely against the trend, has re-opened as a pub. And a pub that majors on its food. We went for lunch.
There’s a short list of starters and, realising that we just weren’t hungry enough for a three courser decided to pass, as the desserts appealed more.
Two smoked haddock and salmon fishcakes formed a lightish main course. They were perfectly fine in the way that food is perfectly fine in a dining pub but may not ring the bell in a more pretentious gastropub – if you see what I mean. The accompanying rocket and tomato salad was spot on for balance. And the tartare sauce gave it all a zing.
Beef, onion and red wine suet pudding was anything but lightish. A thickish, but not overly thick, suet pastry was also spot on. It enclosed some very long-cooked and tasty stew. A mega-quenelle of non-sloppy mash mopped up the gravy. And sugar snaps and steamed cabbage provide a good bit of texture change. Oh, yes, I loved this one!
For dessert, I had a waffle with a hot toffee sauce (yes, there could have been more sauce, chef). Alongside, caramelised banana and a scoop of vanilla ice cream worked well. Over the other side of the table, a red berry and cider jelly wobbled appealingly. There were sliced strawberries and raspberry ripple ice cream. Both worked as a pretty good end to lunch.
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