Restaurants & Bars 8

Manka's

Robert Lauriston | Aug 12, 2004 11:23 AM

Finally got to Manka's, which I've been hearing about for years, last Sunday, and had a great meal ($58 prix fixe):

- amuse bouche of chopped liver on a warm crouton with a wedge of crabapple jelly

- salad of seared albacore, salt-cured black olives, and baby romaine

- rabbit meatballs in thin vegetable soup with raw baby dandelion greens

- warm tomatoes and baby green beans with salt cod puree and basil custard

- pulled pork, grilled tenderloin, and house-smoked belly with roasted new potatoes

- fresh goat cheese with roasted figs and huckleberry sauce

- meyer lemon cake with sliced peaches

- flourless chocolate cake with raspberry ice

Portions were generous, overall good value for the money. Excellent wine pairings, particularly the Durban muscat Beaume de Venise with the chopped liver and a Thackrey Pleiades with the pork.

The wine list is almost entirely California, dominated by $125-250 cult wines (Turley, Sine Qua Non, Duckhorn, Williams Selyem, Peter Michael, etc.) but there are some good bottles in the $30-40 range. No spirits; if I go again I'll bring some armagnac or calvados, it's definitely the kind of rich meal that calls for a digestif.

The room and setting are lovely but I could have done without the Enya-ish music and twee menu copy (e.g. "A Soup Fashioned from the Bounty of Coastal Gardens Dotted with Wee Balls of Local Bunny Draped with Bolinas Baby Dandelion Greens").

Want to stay up to date with this post?

Recommended From Chowhound