Restaurants & Bars 1

Malverde: No Bueno

Joe Fensterblau | Mar 25, 2006 01:23 AM

After reading Ms. Burum's L.A. Times review last week, I could'nt wait to try Malverde. Funny how interpretations vary. Rather than "...entering a white tablecloth restaurant in a genteel old neighborhood of Mexico City.",I felt like I was entering an El Torito, circa 1984. I sat at the counter overlooking the kitchen and ordered the house mango margarita(just OK). Wine list IS weak. When making res I inquired about corkage and was told outside bottles were not permitted. OK. Tostaditos de ceviche--lime marinated halibut, serranos, green olives, cilantro, etc, etc: bland, flavorless, except for the olives, the halibut along strictly for texture. the pan-seared duck in a green pumpkin seed(?) sauce was chewy, the sauce neither hot, nor spicy, nor sweet, just THERE. Disappointing. The pineapple upside down cake inedible. It was like half-baked batter, one taste and I was done. With a glass of tempranillo the bill was only $53, but can't recommend and I won't be back.

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