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Manhattan

Lupa quality variations

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Restaurants & Bars

Lupa quality variations

Peter Cuce | Jan 7, 2002 11:51 AM

I've been to Lupa three times with different groups in the past two weeks, once for a late lunch on a weekday, and twice for dinner, once this past Friday and once yesterday (Sunday). Friday's dinner was nearly perfect, with four of us sharing the ceci & leeks, sardines, ravioli, brisket of beef, citrus-cured pork and tartufo. Everything was cooked to perfection, with just the right balance of flavors and texture, especially the ravioli and the sardines.
Last night I went with five people and shared the mortadella, eggplant, the sardines again, fennel, two pasta specials (a beef ragu with ricotta and a ravioli), spaghetti carbonara, a pork shoulder special, panna cotta, three cheeses and a variety of sambucas. This time, most things seemed a little off. The appetizers were good, except for the sardines, which were insanely salty compared to Friday night, when they were clean and pure and delicious. We mentioned this to the waitress and expected to have it credited, but it wasn't. hAll the pastas were tepid, as if they had held them too long to bring them out the same time as the meat (not something we asked for). In addition, the carbonara was very salty. The meat was good, as were the desserts, but overall the meal was missing some of the elan of the previous one.

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