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Manhattan

Lukewarm review of Gotham Bar and Grill

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Restaurants & Bars

Lukewarm review of Gotham Bar and Grill

AssociEat (f.k.a. EatClerk) | Oct 26, 2004 11:17 AM

I dined at Gotham Bar and Grill last night. It had been a few years since my last visit. I won't rush back.

Here's what I tasted.

First course
I ordered the yellowfin tuna tartare with japanese cucumber, shiso leaf, sweet miso, and asian dressing. This was perhaps the most generic preparation of tuna tartare I have ever had, which is saying a lot, especially given the recent Times article. Shame on me for ordering that, but more shame on Gotham for doing such a lame job.

One of my dining companions had the risotto. I can't remember much about it, but it was decent. My other companion had the grilled octopus with giant white beans, charred tomato, and grilled red onion. This was the best of the three appetizers. It had the full flavor of grilled octopus, but was cooked so carefully that it was tender, not a workout on your jaw, like grilled octopus is at so many places.

Second course
I had the halibut with truffle coating. Quite good. Creamy tasting, I would say. Cooked perfectly, too. Maybe a bit too salty, but no big problem there.

Dessert
All the desserts were presented beautifully, even for an upscale Manhattan restaurant. A real pleasure to view.

I had the cheddar-crusted apple pie, or something like that. Too much flavor of cheese, not enough of apple.

One companion had the "smore." Really a fun, delicious dessert. I'd describe it as a series of clever riffs on the tasty campfire treat.

My other companion had the cheese plate. Looked beautiful. Gotham actually took some time to plate the cheese in an intersting fashion with some decorative flourishes. I tried the blue cheese, and it was yummy.

Overall, it was a good meal, not a great one. At Gotham's price point, that is not enough.

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