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Restaurants & Bars 6

L.T.'s Grill

joan | Sep 26, 2003 06:25 PM

the grand opening is still a week or so away, and the sign outside still says "Munch", but L.T.'s is now open for dinner.(i think i posted about lunch several weeks ago). the 3 of us and 1 couple were the only people there Wednesday night, which is a shame. a lot of the food was terrific.
the meal started promisingly with a small cast iron skillet of excellent cornbread(tho northern style, made with sugar which is ok by me) which went incredibly well with the bowl of cold black eyed peas in a sweet vinaigrette. these were complementary. i'm the kind of eater who can happily order nothing but sides in a place like this (southern, basically). but since the entrees came with 2 sides each, i managed to taste most of them. my friend's pan fried catfish was delicately coated in cornbread and was outstanding. i'm old enough to remember when river catfish was still available with a much stronger and wonderful flavor- but for farm raised it was a worthy contender. my other friend had a very generous portion of jerked chicken served on a skewer.it was very spicy. i had the combo plate. the portions of brisket and pulled pork were generous, the meat was tender but the big disappointment was an overly sweet and thick bbq sauce which seemed(but i dont know for sure), straight from a bottle. the 3rd item in the combo, 4 small ribs were nothing special.
now to the sides....the black beans were some of the best ever-very,very tender but not mushy in a little thickened sauce. the brazilian(?)collard greens were very garlicky and terrific. the garlic mashed potatoes were very good, tho not lumpy like i prefer. the cole slaw was fresh and simple, sprinkled with celery seed.
tho none of us were still hungry, we shared a bowl of apple cobbler. being a picky pastry chef, i'm usually very disappointed in restaurant cobbler-they are overly sticky-sweet with too much cinammon. this one had very little dough, and what there was didnt seem traditional(but then mine isnt either), but the thick, firm apple slices were outstanding. just sweet enough and spiced nicely. the whipped cream on the hot fruit was a heavenly combination.
the cherry on top(figuratively speaking), was the excellent, dark, brewed iced tea that the young helpful waitress kept topped up in my glass throughout the meal. all in all, a place i'll go back to.
(i believe there's breakfast, but i dont know the hours)
L.T.'s Grill, 1800 n. wood(just west of ashland at grand) (312)997-2400 lunch 9-2(M-F),dinner T-Sat

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