Pizzeria Antica, Vito's, Joe's, and Mozza all have one thing in common. They prove that its not the water that makes Los Angeles pizza generally bad.
As long as I can remember liking pizza, I remember being told New York pizza is the best because of our water. Seemed logical. But then I moved to Los Angeles and found Vito's, Joes, and the rest churning out excellent pizzas made from notorious tap water.
Finally, last Friday I tried Antica in Marina Del Rey. I ordered the margarita and, fearful we would be ejected, forced my date to do the same. How did it compare to what I had last year in Naples? The sauce was a mere smear of san marzano, just like in Naples. The cheese strewn in conservative patches, like Naples. And the crust? Yes, it was airy, pliable, and covered in wood soot, like in Naples. So much for the pizza owner in Milan who told me that his pizza was not as good as in Naples because of Milanese water.
And that brings me to the ultimate point. Why does Milan, Los Angeles, and the majority of the world's cities have generally inferior pizza? Because their restaurants make money even when they use frozen dough, cheap sauce, and enough cheese to cover up its quality. Leave the water out of it.
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