The two recent queries about Spoleto and Umbria remind me that I've been meaning to post about this wonderful restaurant since last June, when I ate there.
Locanda Rovicciano is in, or just outside of, the small town of Castel Ritaldi, about a 20 minute drive from either Spoleto or Montefalco. The restaurant, perhaps slightly difficult to find, is in an old farmhouse or manorhouse, painted on the inside in warm colors, with (at least the night I was there) old pop music such as Dire Straits and reggae playing. The clientele seems diverse, interesting, perhaps on the intellectual side, and seemingly low on tourists.
The place is run by a lovely youngish couple: Katiuscia, the server, and Andrea, the chef. Andrea, who used to work in London with Jamie Oliver and others, looks mildly crazy, likes to fry things, and is brilliantly creative. His cooking is quite different from what you'll find at nearby traditional places such as Trivio.
(This led to some confusion for my cousin--with whom I dined--and me. Generally, in Italy, we like to seek out great traditional cooking, and we are huge fans of simple Umbrian food. But we found Andrea's cooking simply more enjoyable, and better prepared, than what we had on this trip at places like Trivio or Norcia's Granaro del Monte.)
Anyway, here's what we ate:
involtini croccanti di melanzane e salsiccia con crema di pomodoro fresco (this was something like a very wonderful Italian spring roll)
crocchette di latte e mozzarella con rucola e pomodorini
sformatino di parmigiano e tartufo
fusilli fatti in casa alle fave e crema di pecorino (fresh fusilli with a sauce of fresh favas and tomatoes, and pecorino cream on the side)
maltagliati con pancetta e pistacchi
tagliata di manzo al lardo di cinta Senese su bruschetta al pomodoro al forno
agnello croccante con patate al forno
tortino di pasta frolla con crema di ricotta fresca (di agnello) e cioccolato
We drank an inexpensive Montefalco Rosso suggested by Katiuscia. (The wine list is fairly small, carefully chosen, and, if I remember correctly, leans toward nontraditional varietals and small producers.)
The only thing I recall about the price is that it was surprisingly low.
06044 Castel Ritaldi, 31 (PG)
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