Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

Lima's Taste report

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Lima's Taste report

Denis | Apr 6, 2005 11:21 AM

Went to this little place on 13th between 1st and A last night. It opened a couple years ago and got some notice then, but I've found nothing about it since.

I enjoyed it quite a bit. We had the ceviche tiradito as an appetizer, which was some kind of white fish in a creamy yellow marinade, with a round of sweet potato and a little lettuce on the side. It was billed as spicy, and it had a nice bit of a kick, set off nicely and typically with cilantro. As my dining companion said, this dish was both hearty and light--hearty from creaminess and the the rounded mouth feel of the fish, and light from the acidity of the marinade and the cilantro.

We also had the causa appetizer, which was a big egg-shaped ball of mashed potatoes stuffed with a spiced chicken salad. The smooth mildness of the mashed potatoes yielded pleasantly to the slight chewiness and spiciness of the chicken salad. I liked this combo quite a bit.

For an entree, I had the escaveche (sp?), which was a chicken breast in a reddish brown peppery sauce on a bed of sauteed onions and thick fried yucca batons. The chicken was very tender and succulent, and that together with the sweet-and-hot sauce (I asked for it spicy, but it wasn't very much so), the slightly crunchy onions, and the crisp exterior and soft starchy interior of the yucca made for another tasty play of flavors and textures.

My friend had the green beef stew, which was cubes of beef in a sauce with peas and maybe little bits of carrot surrounding a mound of white rice. I only had a little bite and didn't get much of the sauce, but the meat was a bit chewy and the sauce that I had didn't make much of an impression. He did finish the whole thing, though this may have something to do with the fact that he's dating a vegetarian and doesn't see a lot of red meat these days.

On the down side, everything was pretty salty, and the dishes except for the stew tasted pretty similar. The latter could be a function of what we ordered. The service was also somewhat inattentive, but it's a small place and I'd been warned of this so it didn't trouble me too terribly.

In all, quite a positive experience. Not mindblowing, but assertive, clean flavors and nice textural counterpoints. I'd like to go again.

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