For the last 15 years, a group of 10-15 New Englanders have traveled to Montreal to celebrate our loves of great music, food, and drink. The Jazz Fest has taken care of the first. And Dany Bolduc has helped us sate our appetites. We discovered him at Reservoir and have waited patiently for his next stop. Le H4C Place St.-Henri is an easy subway ride from anywhere in Montreal and once you’ve arrived, you’ll see a welcoming familiarity in the new place:
Many of the people who did such fine work at Reservoir have followed their chef to this airy, crisp, sophisticated, and comfortable modern setting in a stately old building. They’re a friendly, skilled crew that does justice to Dany’s food. And there really can be no higher compliment: Every aspect of our meal dazzled us.
Among our number, we sampled sweetbreads, octopus, halibut, ricotta, sockeye salmon, and chicken-liver mousse. Every detail is important—from the homemade bread to the homemade pickled onions and fennels thoughtfully sprinkled through our dinner. The sauces were complements to every entrée, letting the main ingredient be the star. The octopus was grilled to moist and tender perfection. Bolduc’s halibut did justice to an often-underappreciated fish. The sweetbreads were the best we tasted in Montreal. And a wine list with a comfortable variety of price points helped us through our evening.
We only had five days—and a lot of music—on this trip, but we made time to come back for Sunday brunch at H4C. Whatever you think of donuts, you’ll come away with a new appreciation of that breakfast staple when you take even the smallest bite of this sugar-coated cake confection. And you’ll be missing out on one of the highlights of indulgent cuisine if you pass up the brioche and the companion four homemade fruit preserves and sauces
Dany Bolduc has a new home in Montreal. So do we.