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Boston Area

La Voile - better than ever, and a small rant on wine value

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La Voile - better than ever, and a small rant on wine value

finlero | Jun 18, 2009 08:18 AM

Hadn't been to La Voile in nearly a year, so I was excited to get there this week and see how it had settled in. And I was even more excited to have a meal that was just about perfect from start to finish.

Flawless seared scallop salad, with fresh greens and a really tangy lemon dressing; perfectly prepared sweetbreads in an outstanding pan sauce; a thoughtful cheese selection; the French bread was appropriately not-too-crusty, all the better for mopping up the array of outstanding sauces.

Value was decidedly paradoxical. On one hand, entree prices primarily in the low-to-mid 20s seemed perfectly fair for the quality. On the other hand, the primarily French wine list, while impressively well-chosen and fairly extensive, didn't seem to have much in the way of good value. The majority of reds seemed to fall in the $70 - $150 range, with a handful of choices just south of $50, nearly all of which struck me as pretty severely marked up. I feel incredibly lucky to be in a life situation where the very occasional well-selected $150 bottle of Burgundy at a restaurant is feasible, even welcome, but given the relatively casual feel of the other elements here, the high wine markup seems jarring and out of place. It seems to me that the rest of La Voile's vibe is all about serving great French food, but taking care to avoid putting it on a pedestal; but the wine list seems to intone, "this is FRENCH wine! Worship, be grateful, and ask no questions!" This, I could live without.

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