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La Flor Pastry Alert

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La Flor Pastry Alert

Steven Stern | Feb 27, 2002 07:25 PM

One particular pastry, actually--one of the best things I've eaten in a while.

It's one of the Mexican pan dulces, over in the left-hand case. It's round, with moist, muffiny, sponge-cake like stuff in the center. Then there's a strip of another kind of dough running around the circumference of the circle like a frame. The outer strip is chewy (it seems like it's rolled out flat, then doubled over a few times), almost like a really good soft pretzel. It's not as sweet as the spongey stuff, but it's covered with coarse granulated sugar.

The whole thing is very subtle--it's all about the contrast between the two kinds of pastry. The combination of the two textures togther is inspired--while I was eating it, I was thinking not just "this is really delicious," but "this is really -smart-."

(La Flor is in Woodside, on Roosevelt & 53rd. They don't always have aforementioned pastry, but the various consolation prizes ain't bad at all.)

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