I was tipped off to try the Nyonya laksa at this new-ish restaurant by a Malaccan-Nyonya aunt. Anyway, I walked into this bright, cheery cafe located in Bangsar Village 1 mall without any particular expectations. After all, almost all the eateries in there belonged to one family, with uniformly bland-tasting, unexciting & pretty over-priced food
One sip of Wondermama's Nyonya laksa gravy this evening, however, was a complete epiphany for me! Remember the reaction of Anton Ego, the notorious food critic in the movie, "Ratatouille"? *That* was my reaction - that first taste transported me back to my grandmother's cavernous kitchen in our family home in Katong, Singapore, of the 1960s. The laksa gravy at Wondermama was piquant, with an absolutely perfect balance of spices - it was clean-tasting, mild-rich with coconut milk, slightly sweet & salty at the same time ... it was the first time in my living memory that I couldn't resist the urge to lift up the entire large bowl and drain every last drop of laksa gravy after I was finished with the noodles :-D
The noodles in the laksa was a combination of thick yellow egg noodles and thin rice noodles, the result was a perfect mix of textures. The bowl of laksa was garnished with a single large prawn, a scaterring of tofu puffs, slivers of fishcake, finely-julienned omelette strips, sprouts and "daun kesom" (Vietnamese mint or "rau ram").
The other dish I tried: Ayam Pongteh - a Nyonya chicken and potato stew was also authentic-tasting, but it paled in comparison to the Nyonya Laksa. I liked the the fluffy texture of the (Idaho?)potatoes, and also the soft, well-cooked, thick ears of Chinese shitake mushrooms. The gravy was redolent of beanpaste & the gentle sweetness of Gula Melaka (local coconut-accented brown sugar). It was served with a bowl of rice topped with softened beancurd sheet and a fried egg over-easy, with runny yolk.
My drink was an iced milk tea ("Teh Tarik Ais") served in an old-fashioned metal mug.
I loved this place - friendly yet warm service staff who are fast & efficient. The colorful, cheery and casual decor, with bright, sun-lit windows was a plus.
G6 Ground Floor
Bangsar Village 1
Jalan Telawi 1
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603-2284 9821/ +603-22020886
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