There's no resisting a suburb called Happy Gardens, and a street called "Jalan Lazat" (Malay for "Delicious Street") where a row of tin-roofed Chinese eateries offer some of the best Cantonese eats around.
I went to Mun Kee, the so-called "Fish-Head King", for dinner this evening. Its specialty, steamed local freshwater carp ("soong yue") topped with lots of minced ginger, finely-chopped scallions and garlic. It was fabulous - sweet, moist flesh, enhanced by the heat from the minced ginger. You need steamed white rice to complement this dish.
Other side-dishes we had:
- Water convolvulus ("kangkong") stir-fried with ground chillies, garlic and "belachan" (super-pungent Malay fermented shrimp paste);
- Crunchy stir-fried pig's intestines with dried shrimps, scallions and red chillies.
Very Chinese-Malaysian - you *don't* get this kind of Cantonese in HK or China, but only in Malaysia or Singapore, where the Chinese have integrated Malay ingredients into their cooking. You can also get this type of cooking in London Chinatown these days in restaurants like New Fook Lam Moon or Rasa Sayang.
"Fish-Head King" Steamed Fish-Head (Mun Kee)
New Happy Garden Food Court
43-A, Jalan Lazat 1
58200 Kuala Lumpur