but eating only at super fancy touristy places just for the sake of it not an object either.
I find it difficult to come up with a consensus list - Istanbuleats.com seem to prefer inexpensive "chowhound" type places (yes, I've read their top 10 recommendations and most of that site, it makes me extremely hungry), the places Vedat Milor mentions on his blog for kepab are described elsewhere as being terribly touristy. So far it seems like Çiya Sofrası is necessary. Abracadabra too?
What are 3 or 4 great fish and seafood places? As I've mentioned on the France board about Lyon's bouchons - there seem to be as many different recommendations as there are posters - one person's tourist trap seems like another's fishy heaven. I don't much care if they have a view of the Bosphorus or of a parking lot but I do care about fresh, well handled and well cooked catch. How about kebap?
(sorry, I accidentally posted this in International before)