After hearing sufficient praise which subsequently warranted a visit, 3 of us made our way to Ici Bistro on Saturday night.
I will preface the post with the fact that they did move to their new location at the Windsor Arms Hotel less than a week prior, however; one must assume that a restaurant of such acclaim and who has been around for a sufficient length of time could make such a transition to a new space (same staff) fairly seamlessly....but you know what they say about assumptions…..
Our party arrived around 6:30 (note the time) and placed our order just before 7. We decided to order 7 different dishes (dessert not included), most of which were 'app' sized, with a few mains to round out the meal. Our (lovely) server asked us if it would be OK for the chef to send them out one at a time to enjoy, and if we were in a rush, which we said would be fine and were not in any terrible hurry….
We began with an amuse of fried salt cod/sweet root veg fritters, accompanied by a spicy mayo (there was a theme of re-occurring faces and techniques throughout the night...more on that later). While the flavour of the fritter itself was fairly subdued, the spicy mayo countered the fritter nicely, and the execution of the dish was spot on, hardly any grease - a nice start.
Onto the menu…
Our waitress mentioned that the croquettes were made of 3 varieties, bone marrow, shellfish (lobster/crab) and a wild mushroom/truffle. The Bone Marrow was slightly overdone as most of it simply must have melted into the fat (yes, nature of the beast, but execution fell short); the shellfish rendition was served room temp and while the flavour was there, no detection of actual meat was present. The star of the show (and perhaps the night) was the wild mushroom/truffle - morels blanketed in a rich cream reduction, with croquettes filled with a puree of additional mushrooms and truffle hidden in between, was very good.
2 of us then shared a Lobster Bisque - overall, a nice dish, sans cream, which I appreciated given the restaurants apparent love of the deep fryer. A light broth, with nondescript foam, ginger oil and a shoestring enrobed, fried (slightly overdone) shrimp hung on the mug.
By this point, while we had enjoyed some of our meal, we had noticed that it was now almost 8:30 - having only been served 3 appetizer sized plates.
Our waitress confirmed that indeed the kitchen was slammed (it is only a 28 seat 'dining room' but they have a 'sitting room' around the bar that I believe the kitchen serves as well - my guess is that they did not account for the stress that may induce - but I digress) and that our next course would be out in a few minutes.
20 minutes passed and the Foie app made its arrival, 1 small lobe of seared and 1 small slice of torchon, a nice use of beet discs with a contrasting citrus glaze, and some protein reduction on the bottom.
After which came a main sized order of their Calamari, which I will say was perfectly executed, with a familiar face on the plate in the spicy mayo we saw earlier with our amuse.
At this point I made a comment to our waitress that while my original response was that we were not in a rush, we did have prior commitments and would need to move things along if possible. She assured me the next course would not be much longer.
It was past 9:00 when we saw her next, at which point I requested that we cancel 2 of the dishes (the scallops and the duck) and pre-order 2 soufflé’s (one of the attractions for my wife in the first place!) as at this rate we would not have been out of there till perhaps the next day!
She was very apologetic and clearly upset as it was totally out of her control, but she handled it fairly well (at least that which was within her control).
We then were served the Beef duo, 2 small pieces of tenderloin with a hunk of blue on one, and a slice of brie on the other, with the same mushroom sauce (not complaining, just saying!) that came with the croquettes, and more fried ‘stick’ croquettes this time. A forgetful dish, minus the sauce (I could have had a bowl of that and his bread and I would have been happy).
Next up, my wife loves gnocchi, so we ordered his Merguez sausage with gnocchi, full portion, which came out as a half portion, no gnocchi, just more random croquettes – the server saw the error (at least in the sizing of the plate) and said they would fix it right away. After we were done, the ‘second half’ came out, again, sans gnocchi, with some other new accompaniment in the shape of a white disc – The dish itself was a thrown together mess and I sent back second half telling them it was simply not as advertised.
We were nearly going to leave, but at 9:50 our Soufflés made it out, LOOKING nearly perfect! I commented that perhaps we were about to end on a high and that the tides had turned, sadly not so. The Soufflé was not properly mixed/combined and contained hard pieces of cooked egg white. The Englaise accompanying the Grand Marnier soufflé was far too thin and lacked any trace of vanilla, the Chocolate rendition equally disappointing.
I did not mention that one glass of wine ordered never showed up to the table – regardless; onto the humor…
The Bill arrives and was 100% on point, no desire to rectify a clear ‘night gone wrong’ so I asked to speak with the manager. It was clear that he understood the situation, but again, did not act as I would have expected (typically in the past in situations like this, one would be invited to come back for a dinner on the house to make up for a terrible experience – I have experienced this locally and abroad) but simply removed the 2 desserts and the 1 ‘sans gnocchi’ app.
I understand that for tasting menus, one should expect to enjoy a relaxed drawn out evening, perhaps 3-4 hours, enjoying 10-20 courses, but this was far from a tasting menu (1 plate per table, not each guest with an individual dish) and should never have approached a 3.5 hour marathon with such poor execution.
I plan on touching base with JP directly at some point as he should have an opportunity to address the situation and (hopefully) rectify it, so we shall see what transpires.
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