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Hong Kong - Yung Kee Roast Goose re-visited


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Restaurants & Bars China & Southeast Asia

Hong Kong - Yung Kee Roast Goose re-visited

klyeoh | | Jul 31, 2014 10:45 PM

This is one HK dining institution, if there ever was one - Yung Kee, the famous roast goose establishment on Wellington St, Central.

The 72-year-old restaurant still packs the crowd in each day, and one-hour waits are not uncommon, unless one has an advance reservation.

What we had:
- Century egg with pickled ginger - still the *best* I'd ever tasted anywhere. Loved their molten yolks.
- Stir-fried garoupa fillets with yellow chives, "gai lan" and carrots - perfectly executed with the delicate fish fillets just-cooked.
- "Char-siu" - flavoursome. Not the best in town, but nicely-textured with the requisite layers of fat in-between lean meat.
- Asparagus with minced garlic.
- Roast goose: definitely not the best in town anymore (even Yat Lok down the street boasts a tastier rendition), but the one we had tonight was perfectly-roasted, and much better than the one I had from my previous visit last year.
- Yangzhou fried rice: good, but the standard seemed to have dropped from the ones I had from previous visits - change of cooks?

Desserts were egg-tarts and mango pudding - standard Cantonese adaptation of Western desserts.

A bit of trivia: 32 seems to be the late founder, Kam Sui Fai's lucky number - the first Yung Kee restaurant was at 32 Wing Lok St in Sheung Wan (1942), then 32 Pottinger Street in Central (1944) before landing on the current address, 32 Wellington Street in 1964. There's a much-publicised family feud going on for the past couple of years between the 3rd-generation Kam family over the control of the family-owned holding company.

But whilst Hongkongers seemed a bit turned off by this, foreign visitors seemed unperturbed. The evening I was there, we were surrounded by what I can describe as the Chinese diaspora - all ethnic Chinese diners, but speaking Indonesian, Thai and various Chinese dialects from Mainland China. Yung Kee will definitely continue to thrive with this new generation of fans from all over the Asia-Pacific region instead of local HKers.

Yung Kee
32-40 Wellington Street
Central, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2522 1624

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