Looking for some really exceptional dishes? A recent meal at Spinasse included these three gems:
Finanziera della primavera: sweetbreads with the season’s first porcini, garlic scapes, and rabbit liver butter. This is not a classic finanziera (which I learned refers to the elegant formal jacket commonly worn in the 19th century by bankers in Torino) since it doesn’t include many of the other “scraps” for which this dish from Piedmont is known, such as cockscomb, rooster wattles and testicles, veal brain and veins, etc. But it’s a damn tasty dish and the porcinis really shine.
Local quail (from Mad Hatcher in Ephrata) prepared a la Piemontese with snap peas, cream, nutmeg, and lovage.
A dessert with goat cheese mousse, rhubarb gelantina, and ginger crumble. One of my pet peeves is over-sweetening naturally tart ingredients like rhubarb and gooseberries. In this dish the rhubarb is appropriately tart but the effect is softened by the goat cheese mousse. The flavors were beautifully balanced.
All winners and all highly recommended.
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