Restaurants & Bars


Hawksmoor, Shoreditch, London


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Hawksmoor, Shoreditch, London

limster | | Apr 3, 2010 02:52 PM

A burger with the right assembly of all the right parts: a soft sesame seed studded bun, lettuce, tomato, good pickles, and a mature cheddar with a lovely nutty pungency but slightly overly salty as to jar the balance of flavours a bit.

The patty tastes good -- beefy and juicy, with all right greasy savoury notes -- and grilled to a solid medium rare, a nice shade of rose in the centre, but perhaps a bit too modest and polite, the patty could have been thicker to assure the dominance of beef over vegetable. For a burger that makes this point (perhaps in an excessive way), try the Bountiful Cow.

Pretty good chips. Thinly crisp and soft on the inside.

Their ketchup seemed a bit too clovey, and a tiny shade thinner than I would have like. Heinz, for all its chemistry, does have a more integrated if less complex flavour profile, and the necessary tomatoey acidity to cut the richness of a burger.

A very enjoyable burger, but certainly not perfect or ideal, and rather expensive at £15. (Compare with the excellent and more enjoyable steak hache - also a patty of minced beef - at Daquise that goes for ~£11.)

The cornflake milkshake is lovely, and recreates an artificial vanilla flavour that is weirdly compelling, wish there was more of it.

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