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Guatemalan Restaurant, SW Fort Lauderdale

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Restaurants & Bars

Guatemalan Restaurant, SW Fort Lauderdale

s.m. koppelman | Aug 16, 2003 11:41 PM

A tiny, clean counter-and-stools takeout on Davie Blvd. just east of 441, this was today's stop on my ongoing Central American chow investigation. I saw they had tacos (in their proper soft-tortilla, grilled meat and cilantro and vegetable garnish form), but the menu only listed chicken and beef, and anyway I wanted.. Guatemalan.

I tried one of the less-familiar entree plates, carne adobada, which consisted of a couple of large, thick chunks of marinated pork (with a big knob of fat on the end) similar to a Mexican carne enchilada but with a strong vinegary tang and a bit less heat--indeed the menu says the meat's pickled. Not bad--different and familiar at the same time. It was served with white rice, a thick dollop of soulful, smoky refried black beans, and a wedge of queso para freir covered in a seasoned mayonnaise, and some warm tortillas. Everything was decent, the meat cooked to order, and it all tasted like home cooking.

In deference to Guatemala's location and the neighborhood's mix which includes Salvadorans, Mexicans and Cubans among others, the menu has a lot of appetizers and snacks that cross borders; both Cuban and a few kinds of Central American tamales, Cuban sandwiches and empanadas, several kinds of pupusas, good-looking tacos (which it turns out they'll also make with tongue and the same carne adobada I had) and so on including tripe soup and some seafood. Next time, I'll have to get one of the ($1.50!) banana shakes. So far it's my pick among the Central American places in the Davie Blvd./nearby 441 corridor. Worth trying if these little places are your thing. 3673 W. Davie Blvd., on the north side of the street. Counter and a few stools only. No tables.

Meanwhile, in other area doings, the Salvadoran restaurant on 441, Acajutla, is no more. It's become a Colombian place called Los Balkanes. I tried a couple of things, none very good, but they're new so I'll give them another try in a month or two. This leaves the little beer-and-pupusa dive further east on Davie Blvd. as the neighborhood Salvadoran outpost.

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